Margay Frame Bushings

[Dan Flanders]

Thanks Dennis, always seems to stray a bit off topic

So I headed down to the Chevy dealership today and zip, zero, they told me they can't get the bushings anymore? So I headed to Autozone and came up with these two options.
(click picture to see larger view)

(These are polyurethane and pretty stiff ran $11.99 for set of 8. Energy Suspension Part#9.8105R)


(These appear to be the OEM rubber and considerably softer than the urethane. Part#31019 Ford Shock & End Link bushings $4.99 for set of 4. You'll need two sets)







The ID seems to be pretty large, but it will definitely work. I imagine I'll probably have to do a little trimming and tweaking, but it's definitely in the ball park as well as an off the shelf solution.

Dan

[Bill Johnson]

Dan

Look at these. These are the correct size and they come in different firmness. Call them an Negoiate a price.

http://store.caliskatz.com/index.asp?Pa ... tegory=396

Bill

[Tom Davis]

NAPA auto parts #660-1100 comes with two hourglass bushings (the correct ones) and the shock mounting stud.
$6.00.....................................Any body want some shock mounting studs for a 1965 who knows what...got about eight of them. They are not heavy enough to make a decent trotline weight.

Also found several suppliers of the same urethane ones...google up " hourglass shock bushings"

[Tom Smith]

Dan, no I do not use Azusa steering shaft kits, I don't like free machining and powered metal material.
I use Rupp steering shafts and hubs.
I myself hate hard steering and push so I set my kart up to neutral steer by using a different tire compound between the front and rear tires and toe out.
I never got either of my Margays to handle perfect. They both steered hard, hopped off tight corners and heavy braking, the single liked to bicycle, and the dual would lift the front end off the pavement coming off slow turns and go right past pushing to some other dynamic I don't even know a term for ( zero steer ? ) and then just shudder when the clutches and pipes hit. I don't have any of that bullshit with the Chaparral so I wonder about the need for rubber suspension bushings in the first place. Tom

[Tom Smith]

That's powdered metal.
Dan this kart does have akerman steering if you look at the way the tie rods are hooked up. This made it a lot eaiser to drive. On the front steer Margay a steering shaft very similar to a Rupp shaft made it drive real good instead of impossible to drive.
Pictures are from Roger Mulkey and I know it's not rear engined. Tom

[Tom Smith]

Here are a couple of pictures of a rear engine kart to keep things balanced here. This is one the karts Eliminator Tires used to test their tires with, a Chaparral with Big-J West Bend 820s.

[Tom Smith]

This would be another nice kart to find.

[Dan Flanders]

Hi Tom-
It looks like your kart started out life as a Cheetah. From there it appears you used a Chapparal shaft with a rear steer arms and pivot set up from a Margay Concept? I say Concept as that was the first rear steer set up from Margay and as Bill pointed out that you can't flip and switch sides of the originals without reversing the camber.

Bill, those are the same bushings I used before I switched over to the nylon washers. I removed them and stuck them in a box just before I moved across country. Of course, now that I want to put them back on, I can't find them. Do you have any pictures of your set up? Also, what kind of jig did you set up and what measurements did you take? It looks as if it would simply be a matter of carefully cutting the yokes off and rotating them forward 5 degrees, but I am mechanically and technically challenged so I apologize if I am asking a bunch of questions. I just need to understand so I can explain to the welder exactly what has to be done.

Dan

[Tom Smith]

Dan, that kart was an almost new Concept II Dual Enduro that had the oiler sprocket hubs, tanks, and dual B-Bombs etc. I turned it into a Cheetah/Concept II dual sprint or something. I was going to run it with stock US 820s to sort of keep it simple. That lasted 3 laps before a brand new stock rod tossed so Terry Ives gave me 2 of his old Horstman 820s to use and that's when things like throttle shafts, crank seals, and blocks started breaking almost everytime it went on the track. The only time it ever had two good motors and the Horstman clutches on it at the same time it made your head wobble when the pipes kicked in.
The Cheetah Mk II and Cheetah Mk III karts are rear steer just like this one. I guess you didn't notice the crossed over longer tie rods. The first Cheetah is the model I made the single pitman arm shafts for. Tom

[Bill Johnson]

Hi Tom-

Bill, those are the same bushings I used before I switched over to the nylon washers. I removed them and stuck them in a box just before I moved across country. Of course, now that I want to put them back on, I can't find them. Do you have any pictures of your set up? Also, what kind of jig did you set up and what measurements did you take? It looks as if it would simply be a matter of carefully cutting the yokes off and rotating them forward 5 degrees, but I am mechanically and technically challenged so I apologize if I am asking a bunch of questions. I just need to understand so I can explain to the welder exactly what has to be done.

Dan

Dan, your best bet is to take your kart to Elite Karing in GA and let Van Glider do the changes.
He has the know how and equipment to do it plus he repairs Vintage Laydowns. Its a lot more involved than just welding.

Bill