help with my kart restoration

[Phil Romano]

hello, I am restoring an old Kart I have had since I was a kid and 2 weeks ago I got it back from many years of it sitting outdoors. My dad bought it for me used in the 80s and it was a wreck, we restored it together and put an engine on it, my siblings and I enjoyed it for many years. It seems like it is a factory build yard cart, and that a few home made peices like the crappy seat back were added. This time around I am restoring it in the theme of a vintage race kart. I am new at this and I am going to need a ton of questions answered, I think this is the right place so here goes the first series of questions.
1. What is the average ride height and width outer tire to outer tire of a vintage race cart?

2. Does anyone make a prebent front crossmember tube angled up to lower the front end? I saw what looked like these tubes in picture on this website they were on a venders table at a meet.

3. Does any one recognise the wheels I have and know where I can find one more? And if I do find another can i make them work with a live axle (right now only they just roll, a steel wheel was the one legger drive wheel)

I will start with these questions,,, thanks a bunch in advance, I know it may seem silly to restore this kart in this manner because its probly junk, But it has value to me so it is worth it.

[Rob Voska]

Going to be a LOT of work. Wheels look like Azusa. Dead axle with one wheel peel check on ebay under minibike as it is the same style of wheel. Frame should sit about 1" off of the ground to be safe for asphalt running. Can probably get a local shop or sprint car guy to bend you up an axle & weld it in so the caster & camber is right. It is a lot of work so don't think it's going to be $20.

[Phil Romano]

Thanks for the reply, I will check out those wheels. LOL I dont think anyone in their right mind would think $20 would be enough to do anything,but coming from a background of building competitive Drag Race cars this will be an easy and relatively cheap project. Unfortunately I sold my tubing bender last year, this is why I asked if I could buy a prebent tube. Thanks again I really like your website...I think once I hack this thing up I will look for an actual vintage race kart to do next...

[ken moss]

Phil I sent you a pm about an axle Ken

[Phil Romano]

Thanks Ken I sent you one back...- Phil

[Rob Voska]

Just installing a dropped FRONT axle will give you an odd rake to the chassis.

[Phil Romano]

Just installing a dropped FRONT axle will give you an odd rake to the chassis.

Absolutely that's why when I install the live axle I will be re doing the backhalf as well. It's gonna sit nice

[ted johnson]

Phil, I'm a Pro/Engineer CAD designer, and I have here a dimensioned PDF for what is basically a Bug Wasp front axle made of .083 or .095 chrome moly. I also have the PDF for trimming the ends to length at a 7 degree kingpin inclination. If you buy the spindle hangers from Colin at Bug (K&P Manufacturing), I have a plywood and aluminum jig which you can borrow for shipping costs. You shove the Bug spindle hangers into slots in the alum. portion of the jig, put the trimmed axle into place and take the whole works to the welder. It works very well, even though it's pretty large. I'm using that axle setup on my new kart. If you PM me from the members list, I'll email you a picture of the axle mounted in the frame. Ted

[Russ Smith]

Hi Ted,
Id's sure like to see a pic of that jig. Can you send one to me? You have my email address.
Russ

[ted johnson]

Hey, Russ. I will send a pic. It's a simple jig with two waterjet cut 1/4" aluminum plates with cutouts the shape of the Bug hangers. They're screwed to a piece of plywood and bottomed onto a piece of 1X1X1/8 angle. Since the hangers are 1-1/2" deep, you lay in a piece of 1/4" flat to space the tube up to center it on the hangers and put the bottom of the tube onto the angle and clamp it in place. Shove the hangers into the snug slots. They're tight enough to hold the hangers in place for tacking. This aligns everything for weld, if your tube is bent right and trimmed right. Ted