Powder Coating

[Russ Smith]

I have an old Chrysler Corp. Paint chip book laying around here......somewhere. There are also various cross reference numbers with it. I'll do some digging and post. When Dewey Bagley was restoring his 1960 Wasp, he and I did a lot of researching. It took a few times to get the right color!! You might want to send him an email.

[Terry Armstrong]

Russ,

Thanks for the information! I have e-mailed Dewey Bagley for more information. Hoping he'll send some pictures of his beautiful Wasp with the Mac 10's!!

If we ever figure out a powder coat color that matches, I'll post it here to help others with the same dillema.

Terry

[ted johnson]

Howard, it seems that your thread has been hijacked, and I apologise. I'm also sorry for saying that it might have been Dean who did the Bug blue research when it really was Dewey. Old memory synapses! With that, the Dodge color code was 506, if that means anything to anybody! No more Bug stuff on Howard's thread from me! TJ

[Terry Sullivan]

Continuing to hijack Howard's post...

The Dodge color is likely to be the real color, since it was from the right time period, but I am happy with the 1973 Chevy Metallic blue.
I am attaching pictures of my Wasp that we bought in 1959. One shows my brother on it with an MC-10 in 1961. The other is the kart at Barnesville last year with the Chevy color. Close enough for govenment work!

[kevin brown]

Is there any concern reguarding heat displacement when power coating an engine? I am under the impression that some blocks were left unpainted for that reason. So it would stand that the extra thickness of a powder coat would cause problems?
Kevin

[ted johnson]

I agree, Kevin. I don't paint or powdercoat any blocks or heads on runners, only shrouds. We removed the paint back in the early days, and I still do it today. If you're looking for a show engine, paint the whole thing with auto paint. If it's a runner, powder just the shrouds! I screwed up and painted the shrouds on the twin Mc7's I'm installing on the Van Tech, and I've been nicking and dinging them up ever since. The 101 on the Bandit has a powdered flywheel shroud, and it still looks fresh after 2+ years of running and getting banged around in the shop.

[Mike Reller]

I used to work in a place where we did tons (literally) of powder coating. There were problems getting it into tight places, like between fins would be. I agree that removal of paint to race, and paint for show is the way to go. I also want to say that after working around powder coat, I'm not a big fan. It can chip big time, and be nearly impossible touch up (deep void, and color matching) We only acid etched and washed before coating. Perhaps a rougher substrate might help adhesion.

[ted johnson]

My powder people, Kaehr Corporation Paint Shop, in Albuquerque, NM is the best I've seen. I've had 3 chassis, numerous engine shrouds and 3 sets of Scott Wigginton's Go Power wheels powdercoated by them, and none of these items has chipped. The first set of wheels were done in candy gold topcoat right over the aluminum, almost 6 years ago. I did bang my Bug Sprint pretty hard when moving to Arizona, but it did not chip, and the superficial scratch buffed right out. A gentle media blast plus chemical cleaning does wonders for prep. I had starter belt rubber marks on my 101 shroud; they polished right out. I will take powder every time, except between engine fins like Mike mentioned. Anyone that's been to Fremont the past 5 events can attest to the quality of my finishes, and they're just ordinary Kaehr shop output, nothing special. I would admit that a good body shop can paint a kart to a higher gloss than powder, but I build runners, not show karts. I will take the $150-175.00 powder job (for 2-bake candy) over the $300-500.00 custom paint job every time!