Seized wheels

[Bill Legere]

Hi, I am a recent new member and I am seeking any suggestions as to how to remove the rear 5" turbine wheels from a ca 1968 Rupp Kart 1" rear axle. They seem to be seized on there and I do not want to damage the casting during removal. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks, Bill Legere

[Merv Cary]

Merry Christmas Bill,
I have had good luck using "Kroil Oil". It works like WD40 but a little better. Some times a little heat helps on the axle.
Good Luck,
"Merv"

[Rob Voska]

I just read an article that talked about 50% acatone and 50% automatic trans fluid. But kroil is the best I have used.

Also DO HOT BE IN A HURRY. Soak every day for a month or two before trying to remove it.

[Rob Voska]

Another thing is if you can get the axle out or have to cut it in half you can put a piece of tube on the backside to support the wheel, A good sharp crack with a hammer will break it loose. I have also used a press. And even chucked it up in the lathe and bored it out.

[Dan Flanders]

Rob made the best point that cannot be emphasized enough, DO NOT BE IN A HURRY. I've wrecked several parts by subscribing to the bigger hammer method, and ultimately it takes more time and expense to undo the damage than if you had just been patient. Also the judicious application of heat (torch or heat gun) helps free stuff up, but again after you've thoroughly soaked the part for a good bit. The Turbine wheels are aluminum, so you can use a torch, but others (Precision and some Go-Power wheels) are magnesium....Magnesium and open flame isn't a good idea unless you have the experience welding magnesium or you really like structure fires.

If you go the hammer route, make sure to use brass or aluminum punch as it relatively soft material which will help minimize the damage to the aluminum. Wanging away with a ball peen and a steep punch will really do some damage. I've had marginal success saving axles. Once that steel insert rusts, it can really be a pain to free up. For me I would rather cut the axle and save the rim. If you decide to go that route, make sure to get an accurate measurement of the overall length of the axle as well as the length of the threaded end and overall length of the 3/4" step. With those dimensions, you can have one made to the exact specs. of the old one. Stay away from the pre-cut Azusa axles, they are made for the yard-kart market and notoriously out of round. Ed Sahagian does a great job cutting axles using precision ground stock (like John Hartman) with staggered key-ways.

I've used Kroil (great stuff) and PB Blaster. Kroil is a little bit more expensive and you have to order it directly from the company, whereas you can usually find PB Blaster at Wally World or your local auto parts store.

I've been experimenting with alternate methods of rust removal on steel parts. So far I've experimented with electrolysis and a molasses dip, both work surprisingly well and the end result is non-toxic. Molasses was the real shocker, I brewed up a 9:1 mixture of water and molasses and let the parts soak for two-weeks. As the molasses ferments, it produces a mildly acidic solution that ate up the hard rust and didn't damage the parent material. After a couple weeks I pulled the parts out, gave them a gentle scrubbing with a wire brush and now they are going to get chromed. Here is a neat link showing the potential http://www.syrupmakers.com/rust/
The only drawback is that the parts cannot be greasy, the solution will not eat through grease or oils

Dan