Wheels and axle "welded" together

[Randy Lewis]

I just picked up a 1967 Bug Sprint that I am in the process of disassembling for restoration and have not been able to separate the rear wheels from the axle. I'm reluctant to use too much force as I don't want to damage the wheels, which are nearly perfect, just very corroded. I'm guessing the galvanic action between the aluminum wheels and steel axle is the problem. Has anyone experienced this problem and found a solution that works???

[Dan Flanders]

Hi Randy-
I see this is your first post, welcome. Yes, just about everyone has encounter this problem. The steel insert rusts to the axle and the stupid thing doesn't want to come free. It is probably a good idea to identify the rims. I think Bug was using Azusa Tri-Stars (Triangular spokes) vs. Go-Power (round holes) on the Bug Sprint. If they are Go Power, keep in mind they can be aluminum or magnesium.

First thing to remember is to be patient!!! Use some Kroil (it is the best penetrating oil I've used, but it is expensive and usually available only through mail order) or PB Blaster and let it soak in for a couple of weeks. Once you've let the rims soak, you've got a couple of options. 1) Hammer it off. 2) If you have a hydraulic press large enough you can try pressing them off without cutting the axle or 3) Cut the axle and use a hydraulic press.

Option 1 (Hammering)
Heat up the rim near the axle [preferably with a heat gun rather than a torch as some rims are magnesium and nobody likes a magnesium fire )] Once the rim is fairly hot you can try hammering it off using a large aluminum or brass punch. You want to aim for the area right around the axle as it has the most meat and is less likely to destroy the rim. Oxidized aluminum and magnesium is VERY brittle so be fairly gentle, you may get lucky and you'll be able to jar it loose without major damage to the rim. If you find yourself reaching for the 2lb sledge, stop while you're ahead. You can go back to soaking and try again or you can try the press.

Option 2&3 (Hydraulic Press)
Heat as before, squirt in a little more kroil, and make sure the rim is well supported near the meaty portion of the axle, not out on the edges. Gently increase pressure.

I've had varied success with both techniques. I've gotten lucky and a couple well placed blows were able to jar the rim loose. Other times it was easier and more cost effective to cut the axle rather than risk damage to the rim. Generally speaking it is easier and cheaper to replace the axle than destroy the rim.


Dan

[Randy Lewis]

Dan,

Thanks for the excellent advice. Yes, I'm a newby so this is the first I've come across this problem. The wheels on my kart are not tri-stars but I'm not sure what they're called. They have five spokes and five bolts and chrome acorn nuts that attach the two pieces together. Not sure if they are newer or older than the tri-stars. I've talked to the people at Bug and I know I can buy new tri-star wheels that will bolt up, but I'd like to retain the original wheels if possible. I guess another question is the best way to refinish the wheels. I'm inclined to have them bead blasted to remove the scale and then polished. Not sure what to expect in terms of results or if the cost and work are worth keeping it original. I'll be looking for the solvent you mentioned and hope I can break them loose. Very much appreciate your help!

Randy

[Dan Flanders]

Hey Randy-
We like newbies here and you won't find a nicer bunch of folks willing to help. Again, welcome.

Hmmm, now you've got me stumped as to what rim you've got. Margay has 6 star, 6 bolt but the Rupp Turbine wheel is also 6 bolt,but the only one that used chromed acorn nuts...You'll have to post pictures. With the Bug, you are in the enviable position that the company is still making karts and you can buy replacement parts off the shelf. Faye, Tommy and Collin are good folks.

In terms of cleaning up the rims, I would go with walnut shells or similar soft media. Walnut shells will remove the oxidation without pitting/matting/marring the surface like sand and other abrasives will do. I've always used a friends blast cabinet, but I've heard of guys buying cheapy Harbor Freight vibrator/tumblers. I guess where you go from there depends on the condition of the rim and what your intent for the kart is. If it is going to be a runner, you might want to consider a set of rims that is in better condition if they are badly oxidized. I am not crazy about the current production Tri-Stars (stupid warning label), but NOS or good condition vintage production Tri-Stars are fairly common.

Kroil is definitely good stuff, but I've also used PB Blaster which works well AND is widely available through Auto-Zone, Napa or Pep-Boys.

Dan

[david a luciani]

here's their order page and a great offer too!!!

https://secure.concentric.com/kanolabs. ... ogle.shtml

dave

[Rob Voska]

Try a 50/50 mix of acitone and automatic trans fluid. Soak every day for a week minimun. Always remember axles are easy wheels are not. I've had luck with a hammer and block of wood. I have soaked some for months before they would give up.

Another thing to do is take wheel apart on axle. If you can get the outside off you can soak it easier. Also try getting key way out.

I've also cut axle and machined axle from the inside.

If there is anything that is important it's DO NOT BE IN A HURRY!

[Randy Lewis]

Guys, again thinks for the advice. I've ordered up some kroil and will soak away and hope for success.