rearenginekarts.com

and take more pictures than you think you'll ever need from every angle and plenty of close up details.

UPDATE- Turns out the axle was in the kart correctly after all. The issue was the mount needing to be modified to support the inboard clutch. All is good now. I do have a follow-up question related to wet clutches, as I'm unfamiliar with them. I know they're oiled through one of the two Allen plug holes, but unsure how much oil to use in a completely dry clutch. Is there a particular approach I should use when it's on the kart?

Alan,

Get yourself a squeeze oiler can to put your clutch oil in.

Remove 1 of the fill screws, rotate the drum till the fill screws are at 4 o'clock like the hands on a clock with the open screw hole at the 4, now stick your oiler in and fill till oil just starts to come out then put the plug back in.

Oh... thats a real purdy wheel you have there.

R.E.A.R.

It looks like you are using a nut with a re-useable cotter key. I would recommend castle nuts & regular cotter keys.
If the nut comes loose it will wear the inside of the wheel & keyway. With a castle nut it can't come loose. I use thin bearing shims in case of it not being lined up where I want.
Click here to view some wheel set-ups. http://rearenginekarts.com/phpbb3/viewt ... f=1&t=5001

Thank you both for the good advice. I'm a relatively new comer here and appreciate all the responses I've received. I rescued my kart from a storage locker and am 99% done with the restoration. Had a Rupp Dart Kart as a kid, but that's been eons ago. Here's a couple of before and after photos showing where I'm at currently.

Alan,

Feel free to keep the questions coming, were all here to help each other enjoy the old days of karting in a safe fun manner while preserving the history of the hobby.

R.E.A.R.