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The HL 166 is a good carb but it does not have a proper throttle shaft ( in my opinion anyway . It is missing one end of the shaft because it is for a modern chainsaw.

Thanks guys. Now I am wondering about crank bearings. Is the A400 equipped with adequate ones from the factory, or is there an upgrade for these as well?

Chris is right about the HL166 throttle shaft. Sometimes I replace the shaft with a longer one from EC Carburetors.
EC also sells this linkage that should bolt right on to the existing shaft.
https://www.eccarburetors.com/889K-Come ... p_459.html
I didn't see the HL166 carb on their web site today. I guess they are focusing on newer, bigger carbs these days.
If you are going to race, or just want to go 'fast', a Tillotson is the way to go.
Note that you will have to replace the standard manifold, or drill a pulse hole in the standard one, to allow the Tilly pump to function. Throttle setups on the Clintons are always a pain.
If you are just going to putt around, keep the float carb that came with the engine. I have the gaskets to freshen the carb.

The A400 is a sturdy little bugger and it will run even with fairly worn bearings.
Your A400 has bronze bushing bearings on the crank. The factory sold replacement bearings, but they have to be reamed to size after being pressed into place.
Unless you have a well equipped shop, that would be a major effort.
If the bearing on the flywheel side is worn, you might get erratic timing, as the points depend on a steadily rotating crank. If you use a module, I suspect the problem is lessened, because it is less sensitive to a little crank 'float'.

Thanks again Terry!!! I have a question or two regarding Tilly carbs :
1)I see some HL166 carbs onEbay for under 25 bucks. Are these good carbs?
2) If I run a gravity feed into the Tilly from a Panther gas tank, do I still need the Tilly pump?
Thanks-we'll get this thing goin'.....

The Tilly needs the pulse, or it won't draw fuel, even with gravity.
Think about the original carb. Throttle connections are less complicated.
With a Tilly on the original manifold, the carb is upside down and the linkage is right next to the bearing plate (side cover).
Very little room for the linkage to function.

You could use the original carb while looking for an aftermarket manifold - like a Go Power manifold.
The Go Power manifold gives you more flexibility and better flow.

Not sure which Ebay carbs you are looking at. Most are really replacements for 166.
This one is a Tilly knock-off - probably from China.
I have had good luck with them and they are cheap!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-For ... rk:16:pf:0

Thanks-I am not going racing-so the stock carb would be okay, I guess. I will need a rebuild set. I really don't feel like drilling a hole for vacuum......

When you have a list of what you need, let me know.
I would recommend this rod on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/245-110-500-Co ... 1438.l2649

I saw a rod that had the number 2422-A then 245-110-500...Will that work?
Also-I will need a rebuild kit for the carb. Thanks.

245-110-500 is the best rod.
Be careful, because it replaced the 2422, some shops would just renumber the 2422 box.
Check this picture. One is the 245-110-500 on ebay and one is a 2422.
You can see that one is a bit thicker around the big end which made it stronger.
The 245-110-500 also has been treated for better wear and longevity.

Yup-that's why I asked. It looked different from the original one. What do these engines use for rod and wristpin bearings?