I want to use stainless bolts on a kart project . Is there any thing I should look for in the way of strength .
Thanks
Brian
bolt question
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Brian Thomas
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bolt question
Brian , Dottie and Shadow Thomas
Black Dog Vintage Racing
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If there isn't a Black Dog hair in the bag it's not a Black Dog product
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Black Dog Vintage Racing
http://www.blackdogvintageracing.com
If there isn't a Black Dog hair in the bag it's not a Black Dog product
"Black Dog" ask for it by name
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ted johnson
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Re: bolt question
Hey, Brian. Stainless hardware from the local ACE or others is usually 18-8 SST, and suitable for normal (grade 5) use. Any high heat/strength applications call for ASTM-A286 hardware. You can try http://www.mcmaster.com for hardware. Good Luck! Ted P>S> I just looked at McMaster Carr, and they DO have ASTM A286. It's 160 - 180KSI strength - about the same as a GR 8 screw. We use it for all flight hardware here at Sandia National Lab. TJ
Re: bolt question
Hey Ted...........You forgot to warn Brian that while he is in McMaster, be sure and order a few gazillion extra drill bits as stainless doesn't cotter pin hole like carbon steel.
The 18-8 stainless hardware that you are referring to will not have a galvanic reaction with aluminum as carbon fastners do.
For critical or stressed connections, and the ones that I don't want to worry about
the predrilled aircraft quality, in yellow zinc dichromate from Aircraft Spruce are my choice. Kinda like the cute castleated nuts and cotter pins and you can get them in 1/16 of an inch increments.
Tom
The 18-8 stainless hardware that you are referring to will not have a galvanic reaction with aluminum as carbon fastners do.
For critical or stressed connections, and the ones that I don't want to worry about
the predrilled aircraft quality, in yellow zinc dichromate from Aircraft Spruce are my choice. Kinda like the cute castleated nuts and cotter pins and you can get them in 1/16 of an inch increments.Tom
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Dan Flanders
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Re: bolt question
Hi Brian-
I've had a bit of success using aircraft hardware (AN). Like Tom said, some come pre-drilled and they have some really trick castellated nuts and locking engine nuts (no nylon to with stand engine temps) that look and work great.
The only issue that I encountered when trying to use it was the length of shank. Based on my limited experience, the length of the shank tends to be longer relative to the length of the threads when compared to typical automotive hardware. I bought the correct size and length for connecting the tie-rods to the steering shaft, but couldn't use it because the shank was too long. Using a fully threaded bolt would have worked, but not for this application.
I guess what I am trying to say is, be sure that the AN spec will work for your application before plunking down the cash. The bolts tend to be pretty expensive, but you'll be hard pressed to find better hardware...Heck they use the stuff on airplanes. John Hartman & Art used them in a number of high stress areas on their karts.
Dan
I've had a bit of success using aircraft hardware (AN). Like Tom said, some come pre-drilled and they have some really trick castellated nuts and locking engine nuts (no nylon to with stand engine temps) that look and work great.
The only issue that I encountered when trying to use it was the length of shank. Based on my limited experience, the length of the shank tends to be longer relative to the length of the threads when compared to typical automotive hardware. I bought the correct size and length for connecting the tie-rods to the steering shaft, but couldn't use it because the shank was too long. Using a fully threaded bolt would have worked, but not for this application.
I guess what I am trying to say is, be sure that the AN spec will work for your application before plunking down the cash. The bolts tend to be pretty expensive, but you'll be hard pressed to find better hardware...Heck they use the stuff on airplanes. John Hartman & Art used them in a number of high stress areas on their karts.
Dan
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George Sellon
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Re: bolt question
Brian, although I'm a big McMaster-Carr fan, I often get fasteners at Bolt Depot
http://www.boltdepot.com
They have a pretty good selection, prices are normally good and I have had good service from them. Check em out.
George
BTW, it was pretty flippin cold up there by you Wednesday!
http://www.boltdepot.com
They have a pretty good selection, prices are normally good and I have had good service from them. Check em out.
George
BTW, it was pretty flippin cold up there by you Wednesday!
kart54.com
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ted johnson
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Re: bolt question
Hey, Brian and all! You guys are right about large fastener houses having better prices than McMaster Carr! As far as drilling them for cotter keys or berry clips, I bought a couple of those multi-threaded blocks to guide the bit thru the center of the screw, and I've had little trouble, even with GR 8 black oxide or ASTM A286 stainless. It's a good idea to use cobalt bits from a reliable manufacturer like Hanson/Irwin. And, yep, Aircraft Spruce is a great place to get AN hex bolts/castle nuts, (though I prefer socket head cap screws) as well as chrome moly sheet and tubing and lots of other neat goodies like Cleco fasteners. Ted
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Brian Thomas
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Re: bolt question
Ya know this is whats great about the vintage kart crowd , you ask a question and you get good useful answers . I am about ready to start putting the Fox together and some pollished (sp) stainless fasteners will make it look great .
How does stainless react to magnesium ?
It was -19 with a -35 wind chill the other morning . It was so cold that the Dodge trans would not build the 50 degree temp. it needs to go into overdrive .
Brian
How does stainless react to magnesium ?
It was -19 with a -35 wind chill the other morning . It was so cold that the Dodge trans would not build the 50 degree temp. it needs to go into overdrive .
Brian
Brian , Dottie and Shadow Thomas
Black Dog Vintage Racing
http://www.blackdogvintageracing.com
If there isn't a Black Dog hair in the bag it's not a Black Dog product
"Black Dog" ask for it by name
Black Dog Vintage Racing
http://www.blackdogvintageracing.com
If there isn't a Black Dog hair in the bag it's not a Black Dog product
"Black Dog" ask for it by name
Re: bolt question
Brian,
If you are going to be 'punching' locations on stainless bolts or nuts before drilling do NOT use a conventinoal center punch with a circular cone shape point.
Grind your punch to resemble a pyramid [4 flat sides].
The reason for this is the cone style punch will work hardened the material before you even begin to drill it and you will not be able to penetrate the hardened location and the rubbing of the drill bit will only make it worse.
Sping for a flat carbide bit, their fairly cheap in small sizes and make sure you keep constant pressure on it as you drill. This assures that it cuts not rubs and make sure your holding figure is as rigid as possible. Carbide does not like vibration.
R.E.A.R.
If you are going to be 'punching' locations on stainless bolts or nuts before drilling do NOT use a conventinoal center punch with a circular cone shape point.
Grind your punch to resemble a pyramid [4 flat sides].
The reason for this is the cone style punch will work hardened the material before you even begin to drill it and you will not be able to penetrate the hardened location and the rubbing of the drill bit will only make it worse.
Sping for a flat carbide bit, their fairly cheap in small sizes and make sure you keep constant pressure on it as you drill. This assures that it cuts not rubs and make sure your holding figure is as rigid as possible. Carbide does not like vibration.
R.E.A.R.