Stepped cranks and saw clutches

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steveohara
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Stepped cranks and saw clutches

Post by steveohara » Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:57 pm

Guys,

Anyone here tried using the stepped cranks and saw clutch internals with a modified drum for use with a sprocket for #35 chain. Looks like it might be possible to graft a 10 tooth gear on in place of the chain driver or even use a 10 tooth Rev Grip drum if bored and fitted with a thin bushing.
Steve O'Hara

david a luciani
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Re: Stepped cranks and saw clutches

Post by david a luciani » Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:54 pm

Steve,
i'm sure it'll work myself.
i think i'd even stuck a mcculloch bell on a stepped crank to see about fit but i can't recall what i found.
was a late night idea and set up i guess.
have bothered with it since i have a few spare motors. :roll:

i'm advising a fellow building a mcculloch saw to kart motor i think he was gonna do that mod.
i'll get in touch with him and see if he did.

dave 8-)

steve miller
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Re: Stepped cranks and saw clutches

Post by steve miller » Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:12 pm

steve i do it all the time i have a few chainsaw hubs ive machined off sprocket and welded on 35 pitch ..chainsaw hubs are great but the guts arnt to good you have to about use rev grip spring at least ..i never can find chainsaw clutch that kicks in much over 2 or 2500 rpm,s i like them atleast 3000 little more if possible .if i new how to post pictures id show you some ive made ..

Shane Tucker
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Re: Stepped cranks and saw clutches

Post by Shane Tucker » Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:21 pm

Something like this?

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26 ... chbell.jpg

Clutch bell from a Super 44A saw with a #35 gear tig welded on. The saw gears were taken down on a lathe (had to be annealed since they were so hard). I need to take another picture from a different angle.

Does it work? I'm not sure. I think it could work, but I think the one that I have might be toast. 1) I put a 12T gear on it (I'm a rookie and it was the only #35 gear I had for free) which is too high for my setup 2) I think the overall width is a smidge too thick to get the clutch nut on without binding the clutch.

Also, I ended up trading away the inside part of the clutch so I would need to find another saw clutch for the tapered keyed shaft - at which point I might as well find a real kart clutch, right?

I didn't do this work myself, but had a friend do it for me. He might be willing to help refine this one or try another if I buy him enough lunch.

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