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Is anyone besides Ron and me using paint stripper to remove Mac paint? I was using Eastwood DeKote which will remove Mac paint, even powdercoat, but they quit selling it in less than 5 gallon lots ($249.00!!)! DeKote doesn't hurt aluminum, can be left on indefinitely and doesn't burn the skin in reasonable amounts. I bought a quart of PTI PRB stuff from Aircraft Spruce, but it is S-L-O-W, and will burn your skin. It also has an offensive odor, which is bad for winter in enclosed garages. The PRB is removing Rustoleum slowly as we "speak", but, I'm less than ecstatic. I hate the texture bead blasting leaves, and I haven't found a local who'll do soda blasting. Any thoughts? Thanks! Ted

Ted,

I use this stuff... it KILLS! Don't spray it and stand up wind
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/mar-hyd ... 10949.aspx

The stuff just destroys any kind of paint it goes up against, powder coat, Mc parts you name it.
Usually on application, wait 5 minutes, wash off with brush and water.
No negative effects on any metals I have seen.
Steve O'Hara

Thanks, Steve! 7 bucks is cheap to try a product out. The PTI PRB is working, it just takes a while. I just came in from hosing the Mc7 block off, and 95% of the paint on the 2 sides I've treated is gone, and the aluminum is clean, with just light brushing from a soft brass brush. Still have 2 sides to complete. I'd heard of the Mar Hyde before; now I've gotta try it. I like the block and head bare, and the inner and outer shrouds painted. We'll get there, but there are several original Mc10 blocks to do, and they all have the *#(&% Mac paint! GRRRRR! Ted

Let me know what you think after you try it out.
Steve

Will do, Steve. Ron's ordering a trial can probably tomorrow. We'll try it out on OLD Mac paint! Ted

Say, Steve. Tried the Mar Hyde on an old Mac crankcase cover yesterday. It works pretty good, and it's fast. It's still tough getting the nooks and crannies cleaned out. It's better than the aircraft stuff in that it washes off. Thank you! Ted

I also ordered the MarHyde and tried it yesterday on some old painted Mac carbs. The can said to use it in a well vented area between 70 and 100F and not to spray it on a cold surface. So. living up here in upstate NY where it was 28F yesterday, I had a dilemma. So I heated up the carbs in the oven to about 100F, put them in the bottom of a coffee can and sprayed that stuff in there. MAN IS THAT STUFF NASTY!!! I had goggles and gloves on but no respirator and the stuff burst into a acrid vapor when it hit the hot parts. After getting a nasty whiff of the stuff I quickly capped the container and in about 10 seconds the cap blew right off due to the pressure inside. I set the can outside in the snow and went inside and used my inhaler to prevent the on coming asthma attack. After things settled down, I washed off the parts and they came out OK except for the nooks and crannies like Ted said. Today I was much more careful, wore a organic vapor respirator and did a second application. I washed the parts off in lacquer thinner, blew them off and ran them for 15minutes in the ultrasonic using formula 50 and that took off the rest. The carbs look like new so I guess it was worth it.

The reason I say this is to warn anyone about this stuff, don't be stupid like me and wear the proper safety equipment. Oh yeah, while I was brushing the carb with the MarHyde on it, the fingers started falling off my chemical gloves!!! That stuff is nasty but I will be using it from now on, thanks Steve, I survived!!

Scott (a little smarter now)

Scott, Steve was right; the stuff is NASTY - but it works! It'll burn your skin quickly. Ron tried to blast the remainder of the old Mac paint out of the tight areas, but his media is worn out. He ended up on the wire wheel for the last bits. I'll buy an 8" brass wheel and try that. Still, the Mar Hyde is the best we've used, so it's in the arsenal. TJ

Scott,
Even a tiny sniff of the stuff tells you immediately that you don't want to have any respiratory exposure! I've never encountered anything that comes close to the instant distress it causes... well, I was standing about 15 feet downwind of the exhuast on a top fuel dragster when it lit off once and the nitro vapor about dropped me to my knees on the first half breath... similar effect!
Glad to hear no serious injury and thanks for posting your story so others will know to use great caution with the stuff. A couple other tips to offer.... don't shoot the parts and leave them sitting too long. If the stuff dries up it is like starting over. Five to fifteen minutes in typical So Cal weather is about the range.. after 15 minutes the chemical reaction is used up an no more progress will take place.
Another tip... anything oily, waxy or greasy acts as a barrier to the stripper and greatly diminishes the effect.
I wash all the parts with original formula Fantastic spray cleaner and a brush first to eliminate as much of the gunk as possible.
OK... so the lesson here is Happy Stripping but use protection
Steve O'Hara