Hyperod's

mcbob · Post by **mcbob** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:13 am

Well fellas i have a Hyperod for a standard series 91 / 92 / 93 on it's way deep south what i would like to know is the rod bolt type and tension plus i assume these rods use the standard needle rollers.

Any words of advice on using these rods ..................

McBob.

Rob Voska · Post by **Rob Voska** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:30 am

I can't tell for sure but the picture don't show the steel cage the needles ride on. Needles can't run on aluminum. There was a 2 pc tool steel insert that goes in there.

Mike Anderson · Post by **Mike Anderson** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:39 am

Hi McBob,

You are up a creek with that rod. I ask that guy about it when it was listed on e-bay and he did not respond. The insert is missing so the rod is useless. The rod bolts are 12's which is a hard thread to match. Finding replacement bolts is really tough. I made copies of these rods in the 70's with different inserts and 1/4-28 rod bolts. Good Luck Mike

ted johnson · Post by **ted johnson** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:21 pm

Hey, Bob. Mike's right about that bearing insert. If you can solve that problem, you can find normal 120KSI (120,000 PSI socket head #12-24 cap screws at McMaster Carr www.mcmaster.com I've bought tons of them, as the Homelite XP I had on my Van Tech is assembled with 12-24's. Ted

mcbob · Post by **mcbob** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:41 pm

Looks as if i have learnt my first lesson about this rod, i didn't realise the insert was missing DAMM no wonder it was cheap ....................

McBob.

Mike Anderson · Post by **Mike Anderson** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 4:38 pm

Hi Ted,

How is the world? The problem with the rod bolts is that they are not 12-24, they are 12-36 which is nearly impossible to find. I gave up back when I was doing the rods. Hope to see you at the Big One. Once again Mcbob, good luck.
Later Mike

Mike Anderson · Post by **Mike Anderson** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 4:42 pm

Hi again,
Mcbob, the only salvation for that rod is to get a Torrington sleeve, have it ground to proper dimensions with a slight interference to generate the squeeze and then score,freeze and fracture it. That is what I did when I copied the rods.
Good Luck again.
Later Mike

mcbob · Post by **mcbob** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:03 pm

Hmmm sounds as if a fella will be needing to keep his classes clean and his eyes wide open ...... i don't suppose one of you fellas would have a set of inserts laying around gathering dust ........ maybe i'll just have to bite the bullet and try and find another complete with inserts.

At least it if polished look pretty amongst my memrobilia ....................

McBob

Bill Johnson · Post by **Bill Johnson** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:54 pm

Are the rod bolts for the Hyprod rods the same that the Big J rods use? I have a Hyprod rod and the allen cap stripped out and I had to drill the bolt and use an easy out to get it out. Now I need two rod bolts for the rod.

Tom Smith · Post by **Tom Smith** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:40 am

Hyprode rods.JPG: (725.35 KiB) Not downloaded yet

Hyprode rod .JPG: (768.67 KiB) Not downloaded yet

Hyprode rod inserts have a Vee joint, there is a Vee index mark on the rod for indexing the rod cap. The insert Vee should be fitted pointing the same direction as the stamped Vee.
Bolt torque is 50 inch pounds. Tighten bolts alternately in 3 steps. They are a socket cap head (internal hex) bolt.
Generally speaking aluminum racing rods are always replaced when the piston is replaced.
The wrist pin in your photos is a Hyprode light weight, thin wall pin as well.

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