rearenginekarts.com

...this is the build video I put together while building the MC-5 replica motor that my son and I ran at The Big One this year. This is in 2 parts (almost 15 minutes total).

Part 1:
CLICK HERE to watch in Large HD Video mode (requires high speed Internet connection)

Part 2: (is uploading, might be an hour or so before it's viewable)
CLICK HERE to watch in Large HD Video mode (requires high speed Internet connection)

Jeff

Very nice! Is there any way to save those two videos to my desktop to watch at a later date?

...OK, part 2 is finally uploaded and working....

John,
You can simply bookmark this page, the vids will probably be hosted on youtube for years to come. ... or you can use one of the many websites out there that faciliate downloading youtube videos (like http://www.gazzump.com/ , double click on the video player, grab the youtube URL, then use the download website).

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I was hoping there was a simple way that I could just save it to my desk top. That way I could enjoy watching it while on an airplane, etc.

Do you have any before the build & during the machining processes footage? Watching the machining & port modification part of the build would be highly educational to me!

I truly appreciate the time you have put into these videos.

If a picture is worth a thousand words... How many words is a video worth?

John,
Yes, it would have been nice to include the machining portions. I could try to do that with the next project, I just didn't have time to try and video tape everything.
Most of the work I did, doesn't require very special tools, all the porting was done by hand with a dremel tool. I made the reed plate by tracing a Mac reed plate outline onto a piece of aluminum plate and rough cutting on a band saw, and used a coping saw to cut out the reed openings after drilling a single hole first to thread the saw blade through. A little grinding, filing, sandpaper....presto! It takes a little time, but a lot of these work can be done with investing in a lathe or mill. As for the cylinder boring, I use a ridgid hone (not a spring type hone, they are worthless for racing engines), which allows you to hone a very accurately round cylinder without taper. A lot of people use the Lisle 16000 rigid hone, it works for most of the kart cylinder sizes. I will at least get some other videos that show how to rigid hone a cylinder and fit a piston.




As for the painting, I masked off areas using duct tape, using an exacto knife to trim off excess tape (just glide a sharp knife along the edge of a casting feature and trim away the tape. Then I fabbed a spray booth from a few card board boxes, cut and duct taped together. First I primed it with auto type spray can primer, several quick drying coats, then just used the Rustoleum Sunburst yellow spray can. It took about one can of paint. After air drying overnight, the parts were then baked in an oven at 150F for several hours... to harden up the paint (to prevent paint damage during final assembly - it can be easy to chip paint away or smudge the finish when it has only air dried for a day or 2). Also, I have learned from the past with spray cans, use a brand new can, sometimes old previously used cans will spray large dropplets of paint that will result in a lousy looking finish. Last lesson learned with paint out of a can ... follow the directions on recoating times, if you wait too long, then try to lay down another coat, the solvents in the new coat of paint act like paint remover on the semi hardened layers already there .... which results in 'orange peeling' of those older paint layers, at that point the whole paint job will be trash. Lay the coats down quickly per the directions, but not too quickly or too thick, or it will run!

Jeff