Rust Pitting

Mike Reller · Post by **Mike Reller** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 9:59 am

I have two karts in the process of restoration. Both have rust pitting on the floor pan, and one has it on the frame. I know that that all rust has to be removed, and that is to be done. Can anyone suggest a good filler. I've worked with bondo, but I'm not sure that it will hold up to vibration and wear. Thanks.

Rob Voska · Post by **Rob Voska** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 10:46 am

Leave it. Bondo or JB Weld will not make it any stronger. After all it is vintage pitting!

Rick Chapman · Post by **Rick Chapman** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:52 am

Hey Mike..
I might suggest "Frame Saver"
It is an aluminum looking thick paint nthat you paint on and then save off.
This will fill in the pits and lats the metal look really good.
Call me if you need more info.
Rick

ted johnson · Post by **ted johnson** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 1:11 pm

Hey, Rick. More info on Frame Saver, please

. The only Google refs I found were to JP Weigle Frame Saver. This seems to be a sticky rust inhibitor you spray inside your steel tube bike frame to prevent rust. Must be a different product? Thanks. Ted

steve miller · Post by **steve miller** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:45 pm

everyone has there own way of doin things ..i have never restored a kart yet without puttin new tin on it ..also never had a frame that was pitted so bad that 3-4 coats good primer and little wet sandin wouldnt take out .i restored rupp grand prix that was under an apple tree so long it had a 4"around limb growed threw the rear engine hoop ..needless to say it was a little pitted ..

Mike Reller · Post by **Mike Reller** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:49 pm

I've been doing some research and found that a company called U.S. Chemical (uschem) makes all kinds of reinforced body fillers. My concern is not structural integrity, but I want to make sure of having a durable surface under the paint. Yes paint, not powdercoat, althought it's tough, It wont shine like like a good base/clear paint job.

Dan Flanders · Post by **Dan Flanders** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:20 pm

I know you said paint and not powder coating, but may want to consider Metal to Metal or Lab Metal which gives you the option of having the frame powder coated at a later date.

ted johnson · Post by **ted johnson** » Wed Dec 08, 2010 9:34 am

Dan, Lab Metal is good stuff, especially the High Temp Lab Metal. I'm not so sure how it'd do for thin sections on something that flexes, like a floor pan, since it is solvent based, not epoxy. Has anybody experimented? I used it on the GK 1200 I sold at Fremont in '06, and it came out very well on solid substrate like dings on the front bumper. TJ

Rust Pitting

Rust Pitting

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