Rupp Lancer GT experts welcome

[Danny Morris]

I'm new to the board, but not to the REAR site. I found the website about a year ago, and it has motivated me to pull my Rupp Lancer GT out of my parents storage shed nearly 30 years later. I know this kart was a competitive kart in Ohio before we acquired it in the 70s. From what I remember, it had a Mac 91 on it before we got it. My dad put a Briggs on it at the time, but now I want it back to its former glory. Soooo thanks for maintaining such a great site! Here is a pic of the kart:

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Before disassembly

(2.19 MiB) Not downloaded yet

I have some questions in my quest for restoration:

1. From what I've read on the site I'm guessing it is a '64 or '65? As I remember, it used to have a badge on the front (spoiler air foil not sure of the proper name) with a serial number. Can anyone confirm the year?

2. If it is a '64 or 65' What engine would be correct? Should I be looking for? MC-9 MC-75? I'd like some opinions on the US820 and the Copperhead 820. Are these permitted?

3. Under the spray can blue and black is orange. Would anyone know the original paint color number / name?

4. I have to repair the rear sections of the frame where the briggs mount is. I want to cut out the tubes the 4-cycle mount is welded to completely and weld in new tubes. I should probably give ROBRON a call. It would be nice if they could send me new tubes ready to weld. Maybe I would send my whole rear section in.

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rear frame section

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5. My original Chilton seatback tank was dented and rusted and got thrown out in a garage cleaning in the 80s. Are there any good repros out there?

Thanking you in advance. I hope I can get it together for the Big One!

[Tom Luttenbacher]

Looks like a 64/65 Lancer Torsion Flex frame. Mc 7,8,9,30,40,45,70,75?,91?, WB610,820, Power Products 58,82, Homelite KL100, BUT no Copperheads.
Unless you can re install the heim joints on the front by steering hoop I would NOT cut the frame ahead of the rubber blocks off the seat hoop but then it might enhance frame strength if you could re install the heim joints. Maybe cut just rear of the heims would work out. Mine is a faded maroon and I have seen orange painted versions. Yes there are re pop Chiltons as well as an occasional usable oem out there for sale. Tom

[Chris Marchand]

Looks like the 65 I had , did Rupp make em in 64 ? Anyway "Lancer Orange" was very popular but I donnot know the paint code. Maybe Jeff Brown will jump in here with the code number.Good luck with your restoration. Chris

[Mike Reller]

I'm not sure you want to chop out those tubes. The forward tube has the plate to mount a floating mount, I would guess it's original. That Briggs mount could be easily ground off (is there a Harbor frieght near you?)
A decent welder would know how to fix the back bar. RobRon may have the relpacements (or Not), but you might as well get your own DNA into it. Are you in Ohio?
Mike

[Danny Morris]

Thanks for the replies. The kart has an aluminum floor pan and aluminum axle. The seat not pictured is black with white piping and says "Lancer" on it with the crossed lances. Yes, it is a 2-piece torsion flex frame. Maybe that will help nail down the year. Was '64 and '65 the only years Rupp made the Lancer GT? The rear bumper tube is pretty deformed, melted, and cracked from a prehistoric 1970's arc welder. It's pretty bad to the right of the mount. I don't think just grinding off the mount is an option. Here's a closeup:

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rear bumper tube toast

(2.68 MiB) Not downloaded yet

So I can run pretty much any Mac I want? I'd probably want to stay with something '65 or later. Is the Copperhead considered a "new" engine or just overly modified? Will it stay with a modified Mac 101? I remember seeing a kart with a 101, oil clutch, and a pipe on it as a kid on a dirt track...it was so fast it was off the ground as much as it was on the ground...amazing.

I also have a Margay gearbox. What are some opinions on using it? I guess a pro would be never having a chain come off. Con...more rotating mass?

I know I have a a lot of questions, but my goal is to finish for the Big One. Thanks!!!!

[Rob Voska]

Hi & welcome. We do not allow the new copperhead 820's. We have rules & guidelines you can see on the site or event flier. We have an either or rule. You can run a pipe & a dry clutch or a oil clutch and a can muffler but not both. You cna run a dry clutch & can muffler and that's what the majority run.

A single 100cc McCulloch 91 series is a good, reliable, fun engine package to start out with that's easy to get parts for.

Gearboxes are H E A V Y !!!!

[david a luciani]

TBO this year would be a stretch but doable if you move fast.
the rear tube rob ron makes repops of but right now not sure on what work is available.
i believe you could send the whole rear mess to them to be reworked but again i don't know the status of work being done this minute try calling.

you have to call alot to get them on the phone great people.
if not a decent tube fabricator can bend the rear pretty easy.
the front tube i'd carefully grind close and file finish.
if theres low spots have a good welder fill them , brazing to fill is a bad idea.

i'd listen to Rob and run a mc91 for now.
easy motor fast and fairly dependable.
always can swap it out later.

theres lots of guys selling engines including me .
i am gonna be selling completely rebuilt mc91's maybe three or four since i have tooooo many right now.
new points, condensor,bearings,seals rings,pistons, fresh paint and decals.
motor comes with material work sheet and current bore size and list of repairs if any.

good luck,
dave

[Danny Morris]

Dave,

Thanks for jumping in. A 91 would be great since I think that's what was on the kart just before it was retired from competitive racing. Let me know what you have.