Yeah Jay, nice article! Now I know why I don't have my parts back yet
Steve O'Hara

The motor will have no problems but your ears and your neighbors will not like it much!
Steve O'Hara

Let's wait and see if it runs tomorrow!

Sounds like you have the right diaphragm and the arm height is set properly. Now you just need to take the fulcrum arm out and squish the spring down as much as you can to lower the pop off pressure a bit. Try to get it down so it will "spit" at around 20pounds. Spray a little WD40 down in the area ...

None, unless you are turning it over very slowly by hand. In that case you would not get any case pressure as the piston moved down the bore and without case pressure the carb pump will not move any fuel.
Regards,
Steve O'Hara

Eric, The arm height can be fluch or a little below... it won't matter if you use the right diaphragm. Can you post pictures of the diaphragm you bought? If so, post a pic of the wet side, the dry side and a side view so I can see how thick it is. You can use the old diaphragm to make a gasket by si...

Bring a large box of new plugs if you have one set up like that!

Try Terry Ives, Vince Hughes or Hansen Duncan for the carb parts. The original metering diaphragm in the DBC 14 carb had a metal plate attached to the fabric with adhesive. The later versions attached the plate with a rivet and that rivet makes the assembly thicker in the critical dimension between ...

OK.... we are getting somewhere. If air finds its way out through the hole in the bottom of the middle plate it means there is a leak in the diaphragm and it must be replaced. The metering diaphragm must seal air out and fuel in for the carb to work properly and consistently. The next problem is the...

I agree with Ron's view. A Rupp A-Bone, even one built in the late 70s is still a vintage kart in the spirit of the REAR concept. Same with the Mac engines sold in the late 70s... other than paint colors they were basically the same engines that were built in 72. One area of design that doesn't get ...