Well, I've tried heating the race and grabbing it with Vise Grips, and I've notched it on opposite sides almost to the crank and as close to the throw as I dare with a cutoff wheel in the Dremel. I've put a chisel in the vise and placed the notch on the chisel point while whacking the opposite side ...

Thanks, Steve! Rob also suggested that trick, and I'd thought of it too. The outer face of the rod throw web on the crank is machined flat rather than having a tapered cast surface like a Mac, and the boss against which the bearing sits is only .030-.040 thick. This means that I can only get to a sm...

Thanks, Tom. Thanks to you and Rob, I have several options to try. This crank is WAY too rare to lose! I've CAD modeled all the gaskets, and will get some waterjet cut, and Dave B. will bore the outside of the case for a proper oil seal. Should make a good engine after all. Will try U.S. Chrome in F...

I managed to get my new bearing separator in last night and proceded to mount the KL-100 crankshaft in padding in the vise. I applied a little Liquid Wrench and began tightening the nuts. It felt as though things were coming loose, when, with a loud pop, the outer race broke into several pieces and ...

Found a local shop that specializes in I.D. and O.D. grinding. They'll do the ball bearings, and will do the seal area on the crank in the event I can't find the right seal for the existing O.D. Nice to find good mom and pop shops! Ted

Thanks to Frank Payne and Louie Figone, I found out a lot more about the Homelite KL-100 P.T.O. bearing. It's a dual row SHIELDED unit rather than the single row SEALED unit I thought it was (it's still on the crank, and I couldn't see inside it) :? . Same outside diameter as the 6203 metric ball th...

Holy S***! That looks like fun! Check around 1:16-1:20 and watch those engines dance and that frame flex!! Great work, Jeff. Ted

Nice vid, Jeff! It's like watching a little kid with a cold! Seriously, it's amazing how much things jump around. TJ

Theo would be proud! tJ

Jeff Campbell kindly pointed out to me that he'd had trouble threading 304 SST rod with a die. 303 is a better SST for machining, especially things like the 1/4-28 threads for control rods. Don't use 304 for threading unless you lathe turn the threads. Sorry if I mislead anyone. Ted