Hi Virgil,
You can also use electrolysis.
http://www.vintagekart.4t.com/restoration_tips.html
http://www.vintagekart.4t.com/documents/derust.pdf
Allan

Hi,

Out of interest can, photos be associated with with the models and years to assist the not-so-informed?

In particular, I have a Dart Chaparral, but unsure of how to identify if it is a 66 or 67.

Thanks,
Allan

Hi,
Get the block welded.... check if the bearing pockets survived.
Allan

Hi Steve and Sonny,

Thanks for the feedback.

I had a feeling a little too much material had been removed from the blocks. High Comp Alcohol and modified level of tune, with a tuned exhaust would be asking for tears?

Allan

Hi,

My question relates to the early 101 and 91 blocks with bolt in boost port covers.

Did milling a window into the side of the block for the bolt in boost port significantly weaken the block?

Regards,
Allan

Hi Phil,

I had to make one of those from scratch...

They are slightly different is shape to the single hole version.

Allan

Hi,

Looking for .010" piston and rings for MC10...

Thanks,
Allan

Hi,
You will find the ignition advances up until about 2000rpm and then steadily reduces as the rpm increases. I forget how many degrees the ignition retards per 1000rpm...
Allan

Hi,

I have been busily rebuilding a Dart Chaparral when I discovered the letter "W" stamped in the main frame and also the rear axle section. Apart from the obvious of allowing the two sections of frame the be mated does "W" have any significance?

Thanks,
Allan

Hi Rob and Louie,

I didn't know about the different axle lengths, so thank you for the info.

The Kart looks to have been set up for twins (and that is my intension). The axle I am trying to confirm as orginial is steel as well. I will check with the tape when I get home.

Thanks,
Allan